The Tour of Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc 2008

Mont Blanc

Chamonix

The Tour du Mont Blanc (or TMB for short) is one of the finest long distance footpaths in Europe.
Depending upon exactly which route variants you take, it involves a distance of some 170km (105 miles) and an accumulated height gain and loss of some 10,000 m (about 33,000 ft).

TMB - Showing some variants

From a low point of 1007m the Tour climbs several times to over 2500m and it is this constant ascent and descent which provide both the challenge and the reward of the ten days or so it takes to complete.
Elizabeth and I did the more conventional anticlockwise version, but instead of starting at Les Houches (as I have done four times previously), we waited for the pouring rain that greeted us on arrival at Geneva to subside and first spent a couple of enjoyable days in Chamonix.

Being a very enthusiastic photographer, Elizabeth was very quickly capturing the scenery, grandeur and character of the Alps.

It is with thanks to Elizabeth that I include the majority of photos in this account.

Visit her blog pages on www.giftsofthejourney.com

Getting there
We flew from Bristol to Geneva with Easyjet. An overnight in Geneva is pleasant, but not essential if you get the right timings.
Transport from Geneva to Chamonix is cheapest by train, but involves several changes.
Tour buses operated by SAT leave Geneva Gare Routier (Bus Station -just off Rue Mont Blanc, near the Lake outlet) at 08.30 daily. This is the fastest way to travel to Chamonix, but this year cost €36 each, one way.
Getting from Geneva Airport to the City Centre is easy and cheap. Either go by train, or more scenically, the Number 10 trolleybus at the upper level end of the Airport Concourse. The tricky bit is getting a ticket! The system relies mostly on trust and you need either 3 Swiss Francs or €2 to insert into the machine, but beware, they don’t give change !
A red button guides you to the easiest option – a time limited single ticket. You don’t have to show the driver the ticket or get it ‘composited’ in a machine, in fact it seems you only need to produce it for a spot check. Hotels offer free tickets for the duration of your stay, so clearly there is an emphasis on getting people to use public transport rather than optimising income !

Lake Geneva with the fountain in the background

Day 1 (click)

TMB Day 1

Day 1 – Chamonix to Les Houches

After the weather made a start on 4 September 2008 look decidedly unwise, Elizabeth and I set out for Les Houches on Sunday 7 September 2008.

We had already walked from Les Houches to Chamonix via the ‘Statue du Christ Roi’ the previous day and thus considered that leg ‘done’ with a second walk along the River Arve, through the pretty villages that nestle along its banks in the Chamonix Valley.

Chamonix – Elizabeth on the footbridge over the River Arve

Chamonix Valley - Les Gaillands

Statue du Christ Roi overlooking Les Houches

Les Houches

TMB Day 2

Day 2 - Les Houches to Refuge le Truc

The first bit was easy; teleriphique from Les Houches to Bellevue and then a descent to the suspension bridge across the meltwater from the Glacier de Bionassay

An hour later, from the Col de Tricot, you look down on the descent to the Chalets Miage, 600m below

Miage - an hour or so later

Le Truc

Another half hour or so of climbing brings you to the delightful, but basic Auberge le Truc

No showers or even hot water and no electric light

TMB Day 3

Day 3 - Le Truc to Bonhomme

This was a long hard day, rewarded by incredible scenery and beautiful weather

The lovely church at Les Contamines, an hour from Le Truc

Notre Dame de la Gorge

Leaving Notre Dame de la Gorge at the start of the climb up the Roman road to the Col du Bonhomme

Elizabeth on the Roman bridge at Nant Borrant

Looking back down Nant Borrant towards Les Contamines and Col de Tricot

The Col du Bonhomme

The Refuge du Bonhomme. A welcome sight after a long day

Bouquetin - seen on the ridge above the refuge as we ate dinner

TMB Day 4

Day 4 Refuge du Bonhomme to Rifugio Elisabetta

This is the day of two major events – the highest pass so far and a change of country.
The Col de la Seigne from France into Italy

The stunning view from the Refuge du Bonhomme

The long descent to Les Chapieux

John begins the even longer ascent to the Col de la Seigne

The Mottets Refuge at the base of the Col de la Seigne

'Cycling' up to the Col

The crossing into Italy

The welcome sight of the Rifugio Elisabetta

TMB Day 5

Day 5 - Elisabetta to Courmayeur

The weather looked and felt unpredictable, so we opted for the low level route via Val Veni

Val Veni

Val Veni

Courmayeur

Courmayeur

TMB Day 6

Day 6 Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

Elizabeth near the top of the long climb from Courmayeur to Rifugio Bertone

Rifugio Bertone

From above Bertone

Looking back over three days of walking since the Col de la Seigne in the distance

Rifugio Walter Bonatti

Dortoir - typcal of TMB sleeping accommodation

TMB Day 7

Day 7 Bonatti to Ferret in Swizerland

Another new country and a sudden change from sunshine to thick mist !

Looking back over three days walking. The Bonatti refuge is the upper building on the left and the Col de la Seigne is the low point on the horizon. So the views from here include France, Italy and Swizerland

Italian Val Ferret

Italian Val Ferret

Rifugio Elena (closed !) below on the climb to the Grand Col Ferret

John and Elizabeth at the Italian Swiss frontier

Swizerland was damp and misty !

The welcome sight of the Col de Fenetre at Ferret

TMB Day 8

Day 8 Ferret to Champex in pouring rain !

Elizabeth, smiling despite the weather

Good for growing fungus though !

and pine trees

Pretty villages but VERY wet !

near Issert

The clouds hung heavy and low

Champex at last !

TMB Day 9

Day 9 Champex to Trient via Bovine

The very welcome and comfortable Hotel du Glacier in Champex

Leaving Champex in the mist

For the first hour or so, the trail is wide and fairlly flat, winding through woods and past wooden houses

Logs ready for the winter. Always so neatly stacked in the Alps

Then the surprisingly tough climb to Bovine starts. Closed and damp on arrival !

The clouds hung persistently low all day

Kevin and Paul from Australia

Chocolate at Forclaz

Last night in Switzerland at Trient

TMB Day 10

Day 10 - Trient to Chamonix via the Col de Balme

We met members of ADIRONDACK MOUNTAIN CLUB many times along the route. Shelley and Jack Finnigan on the right were the group leaders

Trient church

Leaving Trient towards the start of the ascent to Col de Balme

Every breath is a little cloud

Looking back at Trient as we left Switzerland and approached France again

Close to the Col de Balme it became even colder

Too cold to linger !

Beautiful panoramic views of Mont Blanc on the left, the Chamonix Valley and the Aigulles Rouges on the right

So we dropped down into the warmth of the valley and ended the day along the banks of the River Arve all the way to Chamonix.

TMB 2008 complete